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18 May 2012   
Picardy Wines

 
Picardy Story

Picardy is one of Australia's leading premium boutique wine producers, established in 1993 in the Pemberton region of Western Australia.

Picardy produces Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz and Merlot/Cabernet varieties.

All wines bearing the Picardy label are entirely from their single vineyard property in Pemberton. Label integrity is of the utmost importance to the Pannell Family. Great wines are made in the vineyard.

Pemberton is a tranquil and pristine backdrop to Picardy. With a pristine environment like this it is important to look after it. Picardy practices at every opportunity to be environmentally friendly from guinea fowls running free to canopy management.

Picardy is all dry grown, hand picked, estate grown and family run, with 3 generations of the Pannell family living on the property.

Picardy is owned and operated by Bill, Sandra, Dan and Jodie Pannell. Bill and Sandra were pioneers of the Margaret River region, establishing Moss Wood vineyard and winery in 1969. Moss Wood went on to be a major driving force in establishing Margaret River as one of Australia's important growing regions. Dan has grown up in the wine industry and completed a Bachelors of Science (Oenology) at The University Of Adelaide.

Picardy was named after a region east of Paris. A wine merchant and family friend noted that many of the great wines and wine regions have names beginning with the letter "P". Pomerol, Petrus, Pauillac and Pommard are examples. Picardy strives to continue this tradition of wine making quality and excellence.

 

Picardy Vineyard

The viticulture approach at Picardy underpins the quality of the wines, as does the Burgundy heritage of the clones.

The Site

The Picardy site was specially selected for its high altitude and well-drained loam/gravel soils.

Viticulture Approach

The vines have been close planted to promote competition between vines and maximize root depth.

The vines are trained low to enable them to use heat radiating from the gravely soils in the evenings. This effectively extends the duration of the growing and ripening time per day. Picardy is dry grown and hand picked to maximize fruit quality.

Picardy is very aware of its pristine environment and so undertakes environmentally sustainable practices. To minimize the use of chemicals guinea fowl are used in the vineyard for pest control.  Benificial insects are also important to combat pests in the vineyard. Viticultual techniques such as hedging and leaf plucking are undertaken in the entire vineyard to keep maximum air flow through the vine canopy thus minimizing the need for fungicides.

To obtain a naturally healthy soil, cover crops such as clover are used and composted. The clover is grown in the interrows and it works to minimize weed, builds up soil structure and opens up the soil. The clover is later slashed to add mulch to the soil and in turn fertilizing the soil with nitrogen. After pruning, the canes are also mulched and added back to the inter row for mulch. Picardy also practices a no cultivation policy which is beneficial in preserving the soil structure and helps to improve and maintain the worm population in the soil.

All we are doing is going back to practices that were common a 100 years ago. It's not about just taking from the land, it's about giving back too.

The vines are crop thinned prior to harvest every year. This is done in two stages. One to keep the tonnage per acre down to 3 tonnes per acre (some as low as 1.5 tonnes per acre). Then the second crop thinning is to remove the green bunches at veraison. This is also to separate and untangle the fruit so it hangs freely from the vine and improves airflow around the bunches.

When we harvest, great care and attention to detail is taken to pick only pristine fruit. The sorting is done in the vineyard so that no extra handling is needed in the winery. The fruit goes straight from the vine to be crushed and fermented with minimal handling and in minimal time. In less than 5 minutes it can be off the vine and in the winery fermenter which is a great advantage to the quality of the fruit. 

This approach to viticulture reflects the Pannell's philosophy of being hands-on in every facet of the vineyard and winery process at Picardy.

Burgundy Clones

During Bill and Sandra's involvement in Burgundy in the 1980s, they became aware of a substantial clonal selection trial, which had been carried out for more than a decade.

Several hundred selections of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay taken from many of the Domaines in Burgundy were trialled. Of these, four Chardonnay (76, 95, 96 and 277) and 3 Pinot Noir clones (114, 115 and 777) were selected. These clones were chosen on the basis of the quality of wine produced from them, rather than yield.

Friends in Burgundy advised Bill and Sandra to plant a mix of all of the clones to increase the complexity of the resulting wines.

Observations to date suggest that there is considerable variation among the seven clones with respect to growth habits, bunch size, yields, flavour and wine structure.

The Shiraz, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon are also special selections, chosen with the same emphasis on quality in mind. 

 

The Winery

Picardy wines are vintaged and bottled by the Pannell Family in their Pemberton winery, where their attention to detail and hands-on approach is reflected in the wine.

Picardy wine is produced in special tanks, designed by Bill and Dan, which can be used as open or closed fermenters. For example, they can be closed during cold maceration to prevent must oxidation, and opened for hand plunging during fermentation.

With minimal transfer time between vineyard and winery (furtherest point being 500 metres) the fruit is presented to the winery in pristine condition.

All wines are handled gently. Great wines are made in the vineyard and are only finessed in the winery.    We believe the wines should be a true representation of the vineyards potential.

All red wines are hand plunged (a rigorous regime of plunging every 4 hours around the clock) to give the softest extraction of tannins from the skins and seeds while still achieving maximum colour and flavour. These wines are then matured for twelve months in French oak barriques ranging from new to four years old.

The Chardonnay is produced in a delicate, refined style in keeping with the great white wines of Burgundy. It is barrel fermented and lees aged in French oak for ten months.

The bottled wines are placed into wooden bins for 10 months, and later labelled and boxed. This allows exclusion of any leaking corks or low filled bottles, thereby further ensuring the quality of the product that you receive.

The Oak

In 1998, Bill and Sandra went on a fact-finding mission to Burgundy, in particular to find a small, high quality barrel producer. Burgundian winemakers recommended Tonellerie Meyrieux Fils, and close inspection found this French cooper shared Picardy's desire for maximum quality.
 

Pemberton Region

Pemberton is one of Australia's newer wine regions, located in the South West of Western Australia. The first grapes were planted in 1977, with commercial plantings expanding throughout the 1980s.

Pemberton is an excellent region for viticulture because of its combination of southern latitude and high altitude, which create a relatively cool climate. This provides the grapes with a sustained ripening period.

Pemberton's loamy, gravel soils and cool climate will prove it to be one of the best regions in Australia for the growing of pinot noir and chardonnay. The region is also well suited to the production of refined Bordeaux style wines.

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www.picardy.com.au

Wine: a fresh look at Australian shiraz
Wine: a fresh look at Australian shiraz

Wine: a fresh look at Australian shiraz

Like Aussie chardonnay, the country's shiraz has something of an image problem. But a new breed of winemaker is now looking to change that

Peter Lehmann barossa shiraz

Last week I took a look at Australian chardonnay. This week, in the second part of my update on the Aussie wine scene, I'm focusing on shiraz, which is similarly caricatured.

Judging by the wines that are widely available, that might surprise you. Less expensive Australian shiraz, particularly that from the Barossa, is much as it's always been: big, bold and, as the Aussies put it, "grunty". But there is now a trend to pick grapes earlier, resulting in less dense, extracted, more food-friendly wines. Two good examples that wear their 14% abv lightly are the delicious First Drop Mother's Milk Shiraz 2009 (£14.99, The Secret Cellar, Tunbridge Wells; £15.03, The Sampler, London SW7; £15.99,Cambridge Wine Merchants), from the Barossa, and Paxton's sumptuous AAA Shiraz/Grenache 2009 (£13.05, The Sampler), from McLaren Vale.

There's other shiraz, though, that you'd be hard pushed to identify as Australian, some of it yet to reach the UK. Names to look out for includeBattle of Bosworth, whose joyously fruit-brimmed 2011 Puritan Shiraz should arrive at Bibendum in a couple of months; Ngeringa, andCastagna, whose sensational, though pricey (£40), Genesis Syrah is sold by the Wine Society. There's also some great shiraz coming out of the Pemberton and Frankland river regions of Western Australia, such as the glorious 2009 Picardy Shiraz (£22, auswineonline.co.uk; 13.5% abv), from Margaret River pioneers Bill and Sandra Pannell – it's a wine that wouldn't leave côte rôtie fans feeling short-changed.

Mothers Milk shiraz

If you want to get your hands on wines from such smaller producers, however, you need to get in quick when they arrive. For that reason, it's worth getting on the mailing list of specialists such as auswineonline.co.uk and Oz Wines, which currently has a great Australian shiraz case of older and rarer bottlings for £199.99. You can also find a terrific selection at the award-winning Harrow at Little Bedwyn, Wiltshire.

There are also some good shiraz bargains around at the moment. The 2010 Oxford Landing Cabernet Shiraz(13% abv), for example, is on offer at £4.99 if you buy two or more bottles at Majestic; Penfolds' classicKoonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet 2008 (13.5% abv) is reduced to £6.98 at Asda, compared with £9 or £10 elsewhere; and the lush Peter Lehmann Portrait Series Barossa Shiraz 2009 (14.5% abv), colourfully described to me by the winemaker Andrew Wigan as "yummy shit", which is down to £7.95at Great Western Wine in Bath. You'd be hard-pushed to find better prices in Oz.

• For more Australian red recommendations, visit my website,matchingfoodandwine.com.

Photographs: Full Stop Photography

 


 

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